Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate is a cosmetic ingredient derived from licorice root, formed by esterifying glycyrrhetinic acid with stearyl alcohol. Its key benefit lies in gentle yet potent anti-inflammatory properties, effectively soothing skin redness, sensitivity, and irritation—ideal for sensitive or barrier-damaged skin. It also strengthens the skin’s protective barrier, reducing moisture loss and enhancing hydration, leaving skin soft and smooth. A stable white powder, it blends easily into creams, serums, and various formulations, with good compatibility with other ingredients. Naturally sourced and low-irritant, it’s widely used in soothing and repairing skincare products, balancing efficacy and mildness.

Key Functions of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

• Anti-inflammatory & Soothing Action: It effectively reduces skin inflammation, redness, and irritation, making it ideal for calming sensitive, reactive, or post-irritation skin (e.g., after sun exposure or harsh treatments).
• Barrier Strengthening: By supporting the skin’s natural protective barrier, it helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), enhancing moisture retention and improving overall skin resilience.
• Gentle Antioxidant Support: It aids in neutralizing free radicals, which can contribute to skin aging, without causing irritation, making it suitable for long-term use.
• Compatibility & Stability: It blends well with other ingredients and maintains stability in various formulations (creams, serums, etc.), ensuring consistent efficacy across products.

Mechanism of Action of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

• Anti-inflammatory Pathway Regulation
  SG is a derivative of glycyrrhetinic acid, which mimics the structure of corticosteroids (but without their side effects). It inhibits the activity of phospholipase A2, an enzyme involved in producing pro-inflammatory mediators (like prostaglandins and leukotrienes). By reducing the release of these inflammatory substances, it alleviates redness, swelling, and irritation in the skin.
• Skin Barrier Enhancement
  SG promotes the synthesis of key components of the stratum corneum, such as ceramides and cholesterol. These lipids are critical for maintaining the skin’s barrier integrity. By strengthening this barrier, SG reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and enhances the skin’s ability to retain moisture, while also limiting the penetration of irritants.
• Antioxidant and Free Radical Scavenging
  It neutralizes reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by environmental stressors (e.g., UV radiation, pollution). By reducing oxidative damage, SG helps protect skin cells from premature aging and further inflammation triggered by free radicals.
• Calming Sensory Receptors
  SG interacts with skin sensory pathways, reducing the activation of nerve receptors associated with itching or discomfort. This contributes to its immediate soothing effect on sensitive or irritated skin.

Benefits and Advantages of Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

• Gentle yet Potent Soothing: Its anti-inflammatory properties rival mild corticosteroids but without the risk of skin thinning or dependency, making it safe for long-term use. It effectively calms redness, irritation, and sensitivity, even for delicate or barrier-damaged skin.
• Barrier-Boosting Hydration: By enhancing ceramide synthesis and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), it strengthens the skin’s natural defense layer. This not only locks in moisture but also shields against external aggressors like pollution, supporting long-term skin resilience.
• Versatile Compatibility: SG blends seamlessly with other ingredients (e.g., hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, or sunscreens) and remains stable across pH ranges (4–8), making it suitable for diverse formulations—from serums and creams to makeup and after-sun products.
• Natural Origin Appeal: Derived from licorice root, it aligns with consumer demand for plant-based, clean beauty ingredients. It’s often ECOCERT or COSMOS-certified, enhancing product marketability.
• Low Irritation Risk: Unlike some synthetic anti-inflammatories, SG is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive, acne-prone, or post-procedure skin, minimizing adverse reactions.

Key Technical Parameters

Application

• Sensitive skin products: Creams, serums, and toners to calm redness and irritation.
• Post-treatment care: After-sun lotions, recovery masks, aiding barrier repair post-peels or lasers.
• Moisturizers/barrier creams: Enhances hydration retention by strengthening the skin’s protective layer.
• Color cosmetics: Tinted moisturizers, foundations, reducing irritation from pigments.
• Baby care: Gentle lotions and diaper creams, safe for delicate skin.

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