β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN) is a small molecule derivative of vitamin B3, naturally present in trace amounts in foods like milk, edamame, and broccoli, and also synthesized within the human body. In cosmetic applications, it is typically produced through bio-fermentation or chemical synthesis to ensure high purity (often ≥98%).
Unlike traditional antioxidants, NMN targets cellular energy metabolism and DNA repair mechanisms directly. Its low molecular weight allows it to penetrate the stratum corneum efficiently, reaching deeper skin layers to exert biological effects. When incorporated into skincare products, it stabilizes well in water-based or hybrid formulations (when protected from extreme heat and light) and exhibits excellent compatibility with other ingredients such as peptides, hyaluronic acid, and vitamins.
Recent studies highlight its potential to mitigate signs of skin aging by addressing both intrinsic factors (cellular aging) and extrinsic damage (environmental stressors). Its versatility makes it suitable for various product types, from serums to creams, catering to anti-aging, brightening, and barrier-strengthening skincare needs.
Key Functions of NMN
NAD+ Level Enhancement: Acts as a direct precursor to NAD+, a coenzyme critical for cellular energy production (ATP synthesis) and sirtuin protein activation.
Antioxidant Defense: Neutralizes free radicals, reduces oxidative stress, and protects skin cells from UV-induced damage.
DNA Repair Support: Stimulates mechanisms involved in repairing DNA damage caused by environmental factors (e.g., pollution, UV radiation).
Cellular Rejuvenation: Promotes mitochondrial function, enhancing cellular vitality and reducing the appearance of fatigue in skin.
Barrier Function Strengthening: Aids in the synthesis of ceramides and structural proteins, reinforcing the skin’s protective barrier.
Mechanism of Action of NMN
NMN exerts its effects primarily through its role in NAD+ biosynthesis. Here’s a step-by-step breakdown:
NAD+ Precursor Role: NMN is rapidly converted into NAD+ via the NMNAT (nicotinamide mononucleotide adenylyltransferase) enzyme, bypassing rate-limiting steps in other NAD+ synthesis pathways.
Activating Sirtuins: Increased NAD+ levels activate sirtuins (SIRT1-SIRT7), a family of proteins known as “longevity genes” that regulate cellular aging, DNA repair, and inflammation.
Boosting Mitochondrial Function: NAD+ supports mitochondrial respiration, enhancing ATP production to energize skin cells, improving their turnover and repair capabilities.
Reducing Oxidative Damage: By maintaining NAD+/NADH redox balance, NMN helps neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS), preventing collagen degradation and lipid peroxidation in the skin.
Benefits and Advantages of NMN
Anti-Aging Efficacy: Diminishes fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging by promoting collagen synthesis and improving skin elasticity.
Brightening and Even Tone: Reduces melanin production and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase activity indirectly.
Hydration Retention: Strengthens the skin barrier, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) for long-lasting moisture.
Stress Resistance: Enhances the skin’s ability to withstand environmental stressors (pollution, UV rays) and recover from damage.
Gentle Formulation Compatibility: Suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin, with minimal irritation potential when used at recommended concentrations.
Synergistic Effects: Works well with other anti-aging ingredients (retinol, vitamin C, peptides) to amplify overall skincare benefits.
Key Technical Specifications
ITEM |
STANDARD |
Appearance |
White to yellowish crystalline powder |
Particle size |
100% pass 40 mesh |
Water Content | ≤1.0% |
pH Value | 2.0-4.0 |
Loose Density | Actual Value |
Tight Density | Actual Value |
Lead(Pb) | ≤0.5ppm |
Arsenic(As) | ≤0.5ppm |
Mercury(Hg) | ≤0.5ppm |
Cadmium(Cd) | ≤0.5ppm |
Total Microbial Count | ≤750cfu/g |
Coliforms | ≤3.0MPN/g |
Assay(HPLC) | ≥99.0% |
Application
NMN is incorporated into a wide range of cosmetic and skincare products, including:
Anti-Aging Serums: High-concentration formulations (typically 0.1-1%) for targeted wrinkle reduction and cellular rejuvenation.
Day/Night Creams: Added to moisturizing bases to enhance barrier function and combat daily environmental damage.
Eye Gels/Creams: Used to address under-eye fine lines, dark circles, and puffiness by boosting local circulation and cell energy.
Masks: Sheet masks or overnight masks with NMN for intensive repair and revitalization.
Essence Lotions: Lightweight formulations for daily use to maintain NAD+ levels and support long-term skin health.
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